It's ironic, I tell you, that while Horse Cave Theater is offering Fully Committed, that delightfully barbed look at the workings of a trendy New York restaurant, the small Kentucky town's funky and far-from-trendy restaurant called The Bookstore no longer serves meals at its main square location near the theater. The owner, who still has books to sell, says he can't afford higher insurance rates. Reservations never seemed to be needed at The Bookstore, as they most definitely are at the unnamed Manhattan restaurant where aspiring actor Sam Peliczowski, dexterously played by C. W. Gilbert, mans the constantly ringing phones in his cluttered basement nook as socialites, social climbers, self-important whiners, celebrity aides (particularly one seeking meticulous arrangements for supermodel Naomi Campbell's visit), his father, the hard-driving chef, and co-workers of various stripes demand his attention.
Gilbert, alone on stage, becomes all these characters, moving hilariously and convincingly from one to the other. With his father's call, the mood turns poignant. But just when you think the stress and strain can't get any worse for our hero, he strikes paydirt in more ways than one. At the end, he's jubilant -- and even ready to take on another assignment: singing at their table a Mafia couple's chosen favorite, "The Lady is a Tramp," for their anniversary celebration.
Despite the one-note premise behind Becky Mode's satiric yet good-natured scrutiny of this foodie phenomenon, Gilbert's seamless switches of character and director Robert F. Brock's well-plotted stage business keep action moving and interest high.